We burn a lot of candles around here. Some of us like them because of the ambience and mood they set. Others burn them because they smell nice and cover up the scent of dog and dust. But candles, especially the fancy strongly scented ones, can be very expensive.
For my birthday last spring I received candles from 3 different people. That just goes to show how evident my candle love is I guess. When Emma and I went to the Ren Faire this summer we oohed and ahhed over the Beeswax candle seller’s booth and walked away with a bag full of scented wonderfulness. While I love a nice Yankee Candle or one of the many Target knock-offs, nothing is quite the same as a handmade candle. Plus I find that soy or beeswax candles burn longer than store bought candles and soy creates less soot for a cleaner burn. I’ve managed to burn through 3 out of the 4 candles I received back in March. So in order to light up the long winter evenings and make the joint smell more pleasant than a dirty dog, Emma and I decided to make some candles this fall.
First of all we gathered all the old jar candles we had with just a bit of wax in the bottoms and cleaned them out. There are different ways to do this. If the wax is thicker than a half an inch or so I will pop them in the freezer overnight and often the wax will pull away from the sides of the jar and fall right out. Be careful with the frozen jar, it can break or shatter if exposed to temperature fluctuations or if you knock it hard. NEVER pour boiling water into a frozen jar! If the remaining wax is thinner I will pour boiling water into the jar and watch as the old wax rises to the top like a groovy lava lamp. Once it cools I can take the wax off the top of the water and toss it away. (I could save it and add it to new candles I suppose.) DON’T POUR THE WATER WITH MELTED WAX DOWN YOUR DRAIN! (I take mine outside and toss it in the fire pit.) Once all the big amount of wax and the old wick are removed I run them through the dishwasher to remove any remaining small bits of wax and labels.
I ordered new wicks, wax and other miscellaneous supplies from PEAK candle supply. I really like the wicks with the metal holder attached that I hot glue to the bottom of the jar or tin. I have a bag of small tins with lids leftover from projects at the store that make perfect little travel candles.
One thing that is very important when making candles is to have a pot to melt the wax in and a double boiler set up. I ordered a new pouring pot from Peak because I can’t find the one I used to use. I’ve even used an empty coffee or juice can but they don’t have a nice handle and pour spout.
To make a double boiler I use a heavy saucepan half filled with water with 3 canning jar lids in the bottom to hold the melting pot up off the bottom of the pan. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO NEVER MELT WAX OVER DIRECT HEAT! Always use a double boiler. Wax is very flammable and dangerous. Never walk away from melting wax while it is on the heat source. It can go from “just melted” to ignition in a second. There is a reason they call it “Flash Point.”
I ordered 10# of soy container wax that is specially formulated for jar candles. Container wax is a little softer than pillar wax and I think holds scent better. I also like that this wax is in flake form. Super easy to weigh and measure. I also made sure that the wicks I ordered were the right sizes for the containers I was going to put them in.
First thing to do is to attach the wicks to the bottoms of the containers. I just used a dot of hot glue to the metal tab and carefully positioned them on the bottom of the jar/tin. One jar was giving me fits, the tab just wouldn’t stick! Then I realized that it was still a little wet from when I washed it out. Duh! If your jars are too deep to reach down into the bottom use a skewer or chopstick to press the tab in place.
The wicks I bought are pretty stiff and will probably stand up straight but I still like to hold them in place while I pour the hot wax. I found that a pair of skewers and some small orthodontic rubber bands hold them perfectly. If you don’t have a houseful of people currently or in the recent past wearing braces, use tape or other small rubber bands.
Now it is time to prepare your wax. I recommend getting all your jars with wicks in place before melting your wax. I like to weigh my wax so I know how much fragrance oil to add and if I like the results I can repeat them again in the future. I went with a ratio of .5 ounce fragrance oil to 1# of wax (pre-melted.) The wax I bought is in flake form so it is really easy to measure and weigh. Carefully and slowly melt your wax using the double boiler set up described earlier. Once it is all liquefied, remove it from the heat and add your fragrance oil. (Note about FO: Some have a lower flash point, the temperature at which all the scent will burn off. If yours has a low flash point, use a thermometer to gauge your wax and only add it after it has cooled to that point.) When stirring in your FO be careful not to stir in any air bubbles. This is also when you can add a colorant if you wish. Anything from crayons, bits of old candles or dye specifically made for candles can be used.
You can now start carefully pouring the melted and scented wax into your containers. The wax I used is a “Single Pour” wax. This means that it shouldn’t need a second pour after it has cooled. Some waxes will settle around the wick and need a second pour to fill up the void.
Something I didn’t do but may try in the future is to preheat my glass containers. On one of my finished candles I can see where the wax didn’t adhere to the sides of the glass all the way to the bottom. It was one of the last I poured and I think my wax had started to cool. I’ve read that if you blast the inside of your glass jars with a heat gun or even a hot hair dryer it will warm up the glass and not “shock” the wax so it adheres well to the sides. It makes sense to me and I will do this on any candles I plan to give as gifts or possibly sell.
Now all you have to do is wait for the wax to cool and solidify. I can tell you that these smelled SO good! We used a Lilac scent oil and the house smelled like a May morning.
Once everything is cool you can remove the “wick sticks”, that’s what I call them anyway. The last step is to trim the wicks before you burn them. I use a nail clipper to trim them to about a 1/4”.
I like to let them sit for at least 24 hours before burning them to be sure everything has cured. But I can tell you that I have one burning in the kitchen right now and it is heavenly.