Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Halloween 2013: Renaissance Edition

UPDATE!!!! I entered this in the costume contest at Urban Threads and I made the top 10! Follow THIS LINK to vote. The ballot is at the end of the post, scroll down and click on your choice. My personal favorite is between the Wolf Mage little boy and the Awesome Girl.

Halloween has once again come and gone. This year I found my motivation to make a big costume again. With my new machine at my side I decided to go for it and construct a machine embroidery masterpiece.

I found the embroidery designs at Urban Threads, where I find so many inspiring designs. This pack is the Elven Court Design Pack. I used 5 designs and wanted to use more. I did buy ultra-suede fabric to make a long hooded cloak but ran out of time. There are other little accessories and tidbits that I’d like to add to this costume before next summer when I intend to wear it to the Bristol Renaissance Faire. The little Witch Hat is also an Urban Threads design: Lace Witch Hat

To make the dress I used two Simplicity patterns;

 

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5582I made the blouse and vest from #5582 and the underskirt/overskirt combination from #3623. Now I wish I had gone with my first instinct to make the underskirt separate from the over-skirt so it could be laundered easier. I’m afraid the hem of the muslin underskirt is going to get quite dirty at the Faire.

I also changed the vest a little. The instructions were to bind the edges with bias tape. I didn’t want the contrast so I constructed mine like a traditional lined vest and sewed the outer pieces and lining together along the edges, leaving the side seams open for turning. With the heavier weight of my fabric, bulk of the embroidery and narrowness of the shoulders, this was kind of hard turning. Next time I will widen the shoulders or do it as instructed.

I would also like to make the Scottish blouse in pattern #3623 for a less “wenchy” look. Someday I’d like to make the entire Scottish inspired get-up complete with Tartan plaid but I didn’t have any luck finding the right fabric at the right price for this year.

Technical Embroidery Details:

Stabilizer – OESD Stabilstick Tear Away and Cut Away. Having the sticky back was very helpful in positioning the pieces exactly where they needed to go. I think either Tear-Away or Cut-Away work fine. I had both out on my work table and a couple times just grabbed the other one when hooping.

Interfacing – I used a weft insertion interfacing on all the vest pieces (this also contributed to its being hard to turn right side out). But it did really add a lot of body to the vest and helped with the corset effect.  I also inserted featherweight boning in a channel along the front of the vest next to the eyelets. That kept the front from collapsing when laced tight.

Thread – all thread is Isacord polyester embroidery thread, OESD bobbin thread.

Other – All embroidery was done on my Bernina 780E. I love this machine! Because of it I now love machine embroidery too. The absolute check really helps with positioning motifs exactly along with the Endless Embroidery (EE) function. The EE function sews registration marks that you can use to line up the next hooping in a long border like I have on the front of the skirt. I also made use of the built in basting function as well. This helped to keep the fabric exactly where I placed it because the weight of all that fabric kept wanting to pull it off the stabilizer.

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My dog Castiel got in on the Machine Embroidered costume bandwagon too. When Urban Threads put all their wings on sale for $1 the day before Halloween I had to grab these angel wings for his signature trench coat. If you are not familiar with the CW show Supernatural you won’t get it but he is Castiel, the fallen angel and our friend pictured here is Bobby Singer, another character from the show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve and I hosted a wonderful little Day of the Dead/Halloween party here on Saturday night. It was fun getting many of our friends together again. There were many inspired costumes, good food & drink, and fun & games enjoyed by all.  I’ll close by sharing Steve’s costume.

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Tuesday, September 17, 2013

What I did over my summer vacation.

We can all agree that what I didn’t do was write many blog posts! But that’s okay because what I did do was go out and see things, and do things, I went places and tried new things. I rediscovered things and places and people that I’d lost touch with over the years. I found strength in myself physically, mentally and emotionally.  This last trip around the sun has been a hell of a ride and I can honestly say I love where I am right now and who I am.  A year ago that was not the case at all.

So let me show what I’ve been up to and where I’ve been.

For Emma’s 16th birthday in July she and I went to Quebec and then drove from there across Maine to Bar Harbor.  It was a great way to spend time together. We explored a “foreign” city together, took a road trip, and climbed a “mountain”.

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As we drove from Quebec City to the U.S. border our rental GPS was set to take us off the main highway. This was frustrating and slowed our trip. But it also took us to see a part of Canada that we would’ve otherwise missed. As we were driving along a two-lane road that paralleled the highway that I really wanted to be on instead we passed this ice cream stand with this great fiberglass dinosaur playground. I continued down the road about a quarter mile and then just had to turn around and go back. How could I not stop at this place? We were deep in French speaking Canada and I barely managed to communicate my desire to purchase 2 bottled waters and use the restroom. But we got out and stretched our legs and took some fun photos with Monsieur Rex.

 

 

This was my third time visiting Maine. If I had my way in a perfect world I’d be at least a part-time resident. It’s one of those places that since the first time there I always felt like I belonged there. I was excited to share at least a little bit of what I love about it with one of my children. We didn’t have much time in Bar Harbor so we had to condense our visit into the most essential; lobster and hiking in Acadia National Park. Before the trip I researched what hike would give us the most bang for our buck. Because we really only had one day to hike and then we had to hit the road back to Portland to catch a  plane home the next morning. Hiking the Beehive Trail seemed like the perfect fit. I had never done it before because honestly, I was always afraid to try. But I’ve become all about doing things that I used to think were impossible or just outside my comfort zone. Emma was all about climbing up sheer granite cliff faces with only an iron bar to hold on to.

Photos can not capture the sheer vertical nature of this trail. I was too scared to get  my camera out while on the actual cliff face and take photos of the hand holds and drop offs. There were sections where I had to pull myself up onto a rock ledge that was chest high and then scooch around the face of another rock on a 2 foot wide ledge. There was even a place where they had placed an iron “bridge” over a gap that dropped over 80 feet into the forest below. But it was a short trail, less than 2 miles. There were many people hiking it that day and even though I was slow and hyperventilating for much of it, the other hikers were gracious and encouraging. The views from the top were exquisite and the hike back down the other side was lovely. I’m going to do it again someday. I’ll go out earlier in the day when it is cooler and less crowded and I won’t freak out nearly as much! I promise.

In August Steve and I went home to Michigan for a reunion weekend. It was his 30th high school reunion. Small town class reunions are really unique and special. A night of stories, laughter, reconnecting and karaoke on the farm was enjoyed by all. We were staying with my parents and they also had a reunion that weekend. Two couples whom they had been stationed in Kentucky with when my Dad was in the Army were there visiting. They have stayed in touch with these couples for over 50 years and to hear them laugh and tell stories you’d think they were all still 20 year old newlyweds and had never been apart. It all reminds me of that old Girl Scout song, “Make new friends, but keep the old. One is silver and the other gold.”

When Emma and I got home from Maine Steve asked me if I’d like to go to Spain this fall. Of course I did! He had an annual conference that was being held in Lisbon, Portugal and it just so happens that his brother lives in Valencia, Spain and he decided to add a few days on to his Portugal trip to visit him. We couldn’t afford for me to accompany him to Portugal also and we didn’t feel comfortable leaving Emma home alone for that long of a time so it was decided that I would go to Spain ahead of him by a few days and spend time with his brother and sister-in-law. What a perfect way to see a new city. I highly recommend everyone get themselves a multi-lingual family member who loves to share their home and city with American relations! I had a personal tour guide, chauffeur, cook, bartender and the most comfortable bed & breakfast ever. I’m going to have to share some of the details of the food and sites in separate posts to do them justice.

That is the 3 hour tour version of my summer travels. I also did some gardening and a good amount of canning in August. I have a couple more small weekend trips coming up in the next couple of months. (Having a husband that travels all the time has its pay-off with frequent flyer miles.) I have some sewing projects either in process or in the planning stages that I need to show off. Now that the weather has taken a turn toward autumn I’m back to my morning walks with renewed vigor as well.

Friday, August 9, 2013

Know Thy Self and to Thine Own Self be True

I haven’t been doing a whole lot of garment sewing this summer even though I really need to update the wardrobe. I did however find time to do a little stash busting and completed two dresses last month. One was a fail and the other a win. The lesson I learned is to disregard the pattern illustrations and know what does and doesn’t work for your body type and personal style.

First up was Vintage Vogue B8728

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Illustrations looked great even though I knew that this was a classic example of physically impossible proportions for a real woman. But I’d read reviews and seen it reviewed on Sewing Pattern Review and it came out favorable for the most part. It had also been a sample dress made up at my local Joann Fabrics last summer and I bought the fabric the sample was made in because I liked it. I thought it was going to make up into a nice summer dress.

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I was wrong. It makes me look like Freulein Fishwife. I had seen someone somewhere who had replaced the drindl skirt with an a-line and I think that may have saved it. But even then, I don’t like the bodice. The gathers hit me in a weird place and it just isn’t comfortable. Bottom line, it makes me look frumpy and I don’t like to look frumpy. Into the “cut up and use all the salvageable fabric for something else” pile. I’m thinking a lined, pencil skirt.

Or I can keep it in case I’m ever cast in Sound of Music again:

The Hills are Alive!

Then I decided to finally cut into the bright red knit I’ve had in the stash for ever and a day. I love this color too and knew I wanted something with some Va-Va-Voom.

Enter, Vogue 1250.

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I’ve admired this pattern for a long time and it gets a lot of love over at Pattern Review. But I also have been a little afraid of it because I wasn’t sure it would work on my body. But I decided that was what Spanx were invented for and went for it. It ends up being one of my favorite dresses ever. Super comfortable and looks great.

VaVaVoom

It fits my curves just right and the neckline is very flattering. (And I didn’t end up having to squeeze into Spanx after all!) This will always be one of my favorite colors to wear too. I just got the latest Coldwater Creek catalog in the mail and there was this dress (sorry CWC won’t let me steal images from their website) and now I’m on the hunt for some polka dot fabric to make my own for a fraction of the CWC price.

The moral of the story here is to know what works for you and your body. Don’t fall into the trap I was in for years where I thought that because I was “plus-size” that I had to hide all that under voluminous amounts of fabric. All that did was make me look even bigger. Well-fitted, body skimming silhouettes and much more flattering. Sheath dresses and pencil skirts are my friends. When I want a little more freedom of movement I go with wrap dresses with A-line skirts. 

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Dear men who just noticed me since I lost weight,

 

Am I supposed to be flattered because all of a sudden you just now notice that I am somewhat attractive? Did you really just ask a mutual acquaintance if I was still married? Really? (Cue Seth and Amy) Guess what buddy, here’s the deal.

I’ve been with the same man since 1986. Do the math that is over a quarter century. We’ve been married for going on 24 of those years. I was skinny and cute and sexy as hell when he met me as a young co-ed in college. And he fell in love with me. Not because I was thin but because he saw me for me and loved me for it. We’ve had two beautiful children together and I’ve been every number on the scale between 140 and 210 pounds in the years since our wedding day. And he still loves me and thinks I’m sexy.

He’s sat with me in the hospital after surgeries and births and seen me and my body at my worst. And he still loves me. He’s heard me fart, barf and smelled the aftermath of a bad dookie. And he still loves me.

He’s started walking, running and biking with me so we can grow old together and still be active and healthy. We’re in this together; for better or worse, through sickness and health, yada, yada, vows taken before God and all that stuff.

You on the other hand are a marginal acquaintance or maybe even a person I know professionally and you just now decided that I am worth noticing because I’ve lost some weight and carry myself differently. You think I should be flattered because you noticed me? Nope, doesn’t work that way. How many other worthwhile, smart, funny, beautiful women are you ignoring every day because they don’t fit your idea of being worthy of your notice? I’m not even going to say thank you for the “compliment” (and if you really knew me you’d know that I LOVE to say thank you!) because what you did was at best a back-handed compliment and in my opinion it was a rude-ass slap in the face. I’ve always been smart. I’ve always been funny. I’ve always had these cheekbones. But YOU couldn’t see them because YOU weren’t paying attention, NOT because they were hidden beneath a layer of fat.

Sincerely,

Me

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

How I do it: Rhubarb Pie

Rhubarb Pie

Nothing says Midwest summer like a rhubarb pie. 

If I had to say I have one culinary skill it would be making pie, specifically rhubarb. I make other kinds but this is always my favorite. For many people who didn’t grow up with it, it is an acquired taste. Tart and maybe a little sour but if done right, just enough sweet to make it irresistible. Also, the crust is key. A hard chewy crust will ruin even the best tasting filling. I’ll share my secrets of making a light, fluffy, golden crust.

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I planted my own rhubarb this year but it hasn’t gotten established enough yet that I could use it for this pie. I found this perfect bunch at my local grocers. I like the really red kind but the thinner green type works just as well. I prefer the red because I find it a little sweeter and it makes a really pretty pink filling in the finished pie. The type I am growing is Chipman’s Canada Red. The stalks are deep red all the way through, it is sweeter and doesn’t bolt (or go to seed) as fast in hot weather.

Wash and dry your stalks. Cut off the woody and leafy ends. This is one of the things you don’t want to put in your compost pile because it has a chemical in the plant that will kill other plants and can even stop the microbial action in your compost.

 

 

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Chop up the rhubarb into one inch pieces. Really thick stalks should be split down the middle. Add flour, sugar, and salt per recipe and set aside. I do this before I start making my crust to give it time to macerate, or for the juices to come out and soften.

 

 

 

 

 

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I grew up learning to cook out of my Mother’s copy of this cookbook. She gave me this one when I got married almost 24 years ago. I have collected many other fancier and newer cookbooks over the years but this is my go-to source when I want good, simple, home-cooked food. (I use Joy of Cooking when I want to get fancy or try something new.) This also may be the only cookbook that has a recipe for plain rhubarb pie. I’ve seen recipes with strawberries, cream cheese, tapioca and other stuff but this one is simple: sugar, flour, rhubarb and butter.

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Now it is time to make your crust. I also use BHG for my crust recipe. It is simple for a double crust pie:

Crust Recipe:

2 cups all purpose flour

Pinch of salt

2/3 cups shortening or lard

6-7 T. cold water

I used real lard in this pie because I had some on hand from soap making. I used to only use Butter flavored Crisco. But in all honesty, I think I prefer lard. I have no idea what is really in Crisco and anything “butter flavored” is probably loaded with artificial crap. Unfortunately however, this made my pie off limits for my vegetarian friend to try a piece. To me homemade pie is a special treat, not something I make every day or even every week so I splurge and use real ingredients.

 

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Measure out  the flour, salt and lard into a large mixing bowl.

Here is one of my “secrets,” get yourself a “pastry cutter.” I used to have a red handled antique one just like my Mother’s but it got lost in one of our kitchen makeovers or moves. I was lost without it. Yes, you can use a fork to cut the lard into your flour but it just doesn’t work the same. Then one day the Pie Gods smiled down upon me and I saw this one on an end rack at Wal-Mart or Meijer.  This bad boy will combine your flour and lard into perfect little chunks and result in perfect flaky crusts. I promise.

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It should look like this when you are done cutting them together.

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My next secret is to use ice water for the next step. I fill a glass measure with ice and water and measure from there with my Tablespoon. The colder your ingredients the lighter your crust.

Measure the water one Tablespoon at a time and gradually add to the flour mixture. I sprinkle one spoon and then gently mix that section until it clumps together and then push it to the side of the bowl and add another and so on until the entire dough is just went enough to form a ball but not sticky.

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This is what it should look like at this point.

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Then I divide it in half and wrap each in plastic wrap in a ball shape. Be careful to not over-handle your dough or you will get a tough crust.  Put these into the fridge to chill for at least an hour. I also put my rolling pin in the fridge too. I recently found a marble pin at the resale shop for $3! I’ve been using my old wooden one for ages and it worked fine but the marble gets cold and is heavy so I don’t have to use as much muscle power to get a nice result. I’m also fortunate enough to have granite counters so I just roll my dough on them but I’ve also used my big wooden cutting board in the past. When I use my board I put a damp towel under it to keep it from sliding around when I’m rolling out my dough.

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Your filling should be looking like this by now. See how the salt and sugar have pulled out the juices of the rhubarb? But adding that little bit of flour has thickened it all up so you won’t get a runny pie.

Now it’s time to roll!

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More secret weapons. My aforementioned “new” marble rolling pin and my dough scraper. I don’t remember where I found this but I recently misplaced it and missed it terribly. I also use it when chopping vegetables for soup because I can scoop them up off the cutting board and dump them into the pot so easily.

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I apologize that somehow I missed taking photos of the actual rolling out of the dough. My daughter came in the kitchen and we started talking and I forgot until I got to this stage.)

Generously dust your surface with flour. A cold counter or board and a cold rolling pin will also help to avoid the dough from sticking. But if it does start to stick just dust with more flour. As I roll I will carefully flip and turn my crust to be sure it isn’t sticking to the counter and so that it stays fairly circular.

After rolling out your dough carefully fold it in half, using the dough scraper to lift it, then in half again and gently place it on your pie plate like this. This helps you center it and avoid ripping a hole when transferring it from counter to pan. Gently unfold it and let it settle into the bottom of the plate. Again avoid over handling it. If you do get a hole you can patch it by taking a small pie of dough and wetting the area around the hole and pressing the dough “patch” into place.

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Add your filling and dot with butter.

Trim away excess dough around the edge of the pie plate and patch any areas that ripped or didn’t get enough dough.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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(This is when having the daughter come in to watch came in handy. I couldn’t have gotten this picture with one hand!) After you roll out the second, top crust carefully roll it over your pin to move it to the pie. Then it just easily rolls right off and into place. It is really hard to pick up and reposition the top crust once it is put in place so this method helps you get it right the first time.  I also like my top crust to be quite generous in size so that I have lots of overhang to work with.

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Carefully trim off the top crust but leave enough so that you can tuck it under the edge of the bottom crust to get a good seal.

Then my favorite part of pie making; fluting the edges. I remember watching my Mom do this and thinking it was kind of magical. I even think there may be a “code” for pie crust edges. Fluted means it is a fruit pie, forked means it is a meat pie, or am I making that up?

The process of fluting isn’t easily described in words but I think my daughter did a pretty good job of capturing my method in this photo. Just gently press down with two fingers on the top and press between them with the thumb of your other hand along the edge. It makes a pretty edge and seals the edge against leaks.

 

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Melt a couple of tablespoons of butter and brush over the top of the crust, then sprinkle with sugar. You can use an egg wash if you prefer but I like the butter. I find egg wash can get too brown for my preferences. Plus BUTTER! I really like this little silicone basting brush. I used to have a traditional bristle pastry brush but it would get used for BBQ and then never be right again. This one can go into the dishwasher and comes out perfectly clean and sanitized. For some reason it has been dubbed the “butt tickler” but I assure you it has never been used for that purpose! It just looks like some kind of kinky sex toy and we are a bit twisted around here so there you go.

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Cut slits into the top of you pie to let the steam escape during baking. You can go as simple as this or get all fancy and use a small cookie cutter or write your name or whatever. “Roll it and pat it and mark it with a B” if that’s what you want!

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Almost ready for the oven! I also take strips of aluminum foil and cover the edges of the pie for the first 25 minutes of baking. This prevents the edges from getting too brown. I’ve seen actual metal pie guards sold for this purpose but I don’t need or have room for one more limited use gadget in my kitchen. I have to save room for my pastry cutter, dough scraper, marble rolling pin and mango slicer for heaven’s sake!

Into the oven at 375 for 25 minutes, remove foil and bake for another 25 minutes or until golden brown. Remove and cool on a rack or your kitchen window, just be careful that Eddie Haskell doesn’t come along and steal it! (I really am old aren’t I?)

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You should have a golden, flakey, delicious pie to satisfy your summer cravings and impress your friends. I made this for a little midsummer party we had on Sunday and I forgot to take any photos of a slice. So you’ll just have to take my word for it that it was a beautiful pink filling with just the right amount of tart and sweet.

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Project Organization: Sewing Room & Closet Purge

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My creative space is finally cleaned out enough to be truly conducive to the creative process. Sarah and I spent a few days a couple of weeks ago emptying and purging two closets and making room for much of what used to be stored in here. I can find things again! I have room to breath and move around. It’s wonderful!

I didn’t take a before photo of the big closet but it is a thing of beauty now. Before I couldn’t even open the door all the way let alone actually walk into the walk in closet.

Organized chaos.  View as you walk into the closet

Floor to ceiling deep shelves.Yarn bins

I know having a huge closet like this is every crafter’s dream . Once it was empty my daughter walked in and noted that her bed could fit in there. I think I had a room that I rented in college one summer that was smaller than this closet. It even has a heat register so it is heated & cooled (better than her bedroom!)

So much stuff got tossed or donated to Goodwill or friends. I still have a small pile of stuff that was too good to give away but I haven’t had time to put on Craigslist or Ebay. It was so helpful to have Sarah’s assistance because she is brutal about getting rid of stuff. Plus some of the stuff in there was old pieces she made as a kid and I didn’t want to be the one to get rid of it. But she had no sentimentality over most of it and I was able to purge without guilt. The 4 black boxes on the shelves are filled with both girls’ school and art work that I couldn’t part with and wanted to save. Now it has a home and will be kept safe for the day I need to relive those years and share them with future generations.

Here are more views of the big room now with open space.

Fabric wall and cutting tableSewing corner and desk area.

Steve's corner.An empty shelf!

I read the book, The Happiness Project last fall and one thing she talks about is giving yourself the gift of an empty shelf and how that little thing can add to your happiness. I now have a couple almost empty shelves in my house and I can attest that it is a wonderful thing. They symbolize freedom, opportunity, space, possibility.

And my view to the front yard.

View to the front garden

I also love the change in viewpoint working in this room gives me. I can look down on my front garden and not see the weeds or plants that need moved or deadheaded. Instead I just see the verdant green this week or the colors of iris and peonies last week.

Today I’ve been given the gift of a rainy day off from work. I’m planning to use it to cut out a dress that has been waiting to be made for over a year. I’ve also found some old projects and supplies that I forgot I had and may be inspired to pull them out for some play time.

 

 

 

 

If you’d like to see how far I’ve come go here:

 

Where I Sew: Hoarder’s Edition

Progress Report

Progress Report 2