Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Schoolhouse Tunic and Mimosa Pants

How’s that for an exciting blog title?

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This is the second Schoolhouse Tunic I’ve made (technically third, I made one for the store too.) from the pattern by Sew Liberated. It is a fast, easy project. I’ve seen it on many blogs and sewing websites. The first one I made was out of a grey and blue woven stripe and I made the shirt length vs. the tunic length. I like it and wear it often but it isn’t my favorite shirt. My oldest daughter said it looked like a men’s maternity top, whatever THAT means! I thought the longer length would be more flattering and maybe a more feminine print would help. We’ll see what this looks like paired with a summery pair of white or mint capris and sandals if the weather ever warms up around here

When cutting this out I tried really hard to make sure none of the paisleys (Amy Butler Soul Blossoms fabric) landed right on top of my boobs. If you look closely at the fabric you can see that the turquoise elements look a little like N’avi grabby hands. I didn’t want that over a tit. I think I managed to get them placed okay. I learned this lesson at a young age when my mother made herself a bathing suit for a trip to Hawaii. She had recently discovered the joys of double knits (it was the 70s after all!) and had chosen a very bright Hawaiian floral to make this suit. She did a fabulous job as was always her way. But when she put it on she discovered a very “Georgia O’Keefe” flower positioned in a very embarrassing place.

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I also made a new pair of pants last week. These are from Project Sewing Workshop – Mimosa Pants. I’ve been looking for a pants pattern for a very long time. Pants are probably the toughest sewing project out there and finding a pattern that fits and flatters in next to impossible in my experience. I like these but I have to remake them in the future in at least one size down.

Pattern sizing is insane. It isn’t anything like off the rack “vanity” sizing you find in stores. But it isn’t standardized and every pattern designer can and usually does use a different set of measurements for their patterns. The big book pattern companies still use sizing form pattern slopers designed in the 40s. Modern pattern makers like Project Sewing Workshop and Sew Liberated use more modern measurements. Plus size patterns are made with a D-cup and if you are plus sized everywhere but there you have to make adjustments for that. My wish is for pattern makers to tell you on the envelope if the measurements given are finished garment dimensions or body measurements and what wearing ease is designed into the garment.

These pants are designed to be very wide legged and flowing. But they need to sit close around the waist and hips. I took my measurements very carefully and even did a pin fitting with the paper pattern. I cut the largest size and then machine basted the pieces together for a final fitting before seaming. They were HUGE! Per the pattern measurements they should’ve been an inch or two too tight in the waist but I took that plus some in before finishing. I didn’t the best I could but I’m still not perfectly happy. The crotch still hangs a little low and the legs are too wide. Also the wool/spandex fabric used is a little scratchy, especially on winter dry skin, so I wish I had lined them. The pattern is simple enough that lining them would have been very easy.

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What I like about them is the waistband and side invisible zipper. I wear most of my tops untucked and I hate when the front fly and button on a pair of pants sticks out and shows through the front of my shirt. Now that I am the proud owner of a #35 invisible zipper foot I love invisible zippers. I will be putting them in everything I make to wear below the waist. I have enough bumps and bulges with out adding them with my clothing!

I think this pattern would be great made out of a soft linen for summer. We also have some other colors of wool gabardine at the store that I will attempt another pair out of for work. I’ll just go down a size or two first.

I’m going to attempt to make a lot more of my own clothes again and work on my pattern altering and fitting skills along the way. My first plan is to gather a collection of basic patterns that I like the construction and basic fit and build from there. I’d love to get suggestions for patterns that others have liked. I’ve found some nice ones on the Burda site that I may try next.

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