Win some. Lose some.

I got most of another outfit made this week. I purchased this fabric back in April when I made a trip into the city with my sister to Vogue and Fishman’s Fabrics I knew all along I wanted to make a Chanel style jacket out of the paisley brocade and slacks out of the wool twill. I also purchased a plum wool challis for a blouse but I’m still trying to decide what pattern or style I want to use that for to complete the outfit.

The Pants: Winning!

I used what I think now has become my tried-and-true pants pattern: Project Sewing Workshop Mimosa Pants. This time I made the XL instead of the XXL and the fit was perfect, even though my measurements would indicate that I needed the XXL. But the last time I made them they needed 1 inch plus seam allowances and were still quite roomy on me. This time I was using a wool/lycra blend and knew that they would stretch so I could go more fitted. This is still a really loose fit style with very wide straight legs. The construction of this pattern is so fast and easy. No pockets, invisible zipper in the side seam and a very simple faced waistband. I considered lining this pair because the last ones were a little scratchy but I didn’t really have a lining fabric that matched so I decided to just go for it without the lining. I hope as winter progresses I won’t regret this. These are definitely a winner. I will get a lot of wear out of them for work and any time I want to look pulled together and still be comfortable. I now feel confident enough with this pattern and sizing that I’m going to splurge on some of the Mark Jacobs wool we have at work to make some more versions of this in other colors.

The Jacket: Fail

I loved this fabric from the moment I saw it. I kept it safely tucked away on my stash shelf all summer waiting to take my time and make a perfect jacket for cold days at work. I haven’t made a lined jacket in decades. I thought I had sufficiently conquered all my fitting demons and was ready for the challenge. I plunged in with all my presser feet and went for it. Over all the construction and look of the jacket is fine. It is a wearable garment. But it doesn’t fit as well as I’d like. I used Kwik Sew 3258 View A without the zipper. I made the Large because judging from the pattern measurements the XL would be too big across the shoulders. Wrong! I also made the mistake of not reading my instructions close enough and I cut on the front line for the view with the zipper, thus eliminating about 2” along the center front. It under no circumstances will meet at the bottom across my high-waist/hips. It barely meets across my boobs. Once it was fully lined the shoulders and underarms feel tight. If I lost 10-15” it would probably be fine but I don’t see that happening this fall. (Plus then my perfect new pants would be too big!) I didn’t decide to bag my lining until the last minute so it isn’t as perfect as I’d like it to be, just some minor construction details that I screwed up. I lined it with a bright purple Ambience lining that I thought would be fun but now I realize that if it shows at all it is really garish and looks horrible with the plum challis that I have planned for the blouse. Overall it wasn’t a total loss. It is still a wearable garment, just not as comfortable and well-fitted as I’d like. I also learned (or relearned) a number of things that I can use the next time I want to make this jacket. I’m still not giving up on my Chanel dreams. Next time I’m going to go with a more traditional tweed or boucle. I saw one at Joann’s that I loved the colors but know that the fabric is cheap acrylic. It might serve as a good guinea pig fabric to get the sizing on this pattern down better. Oh, but I cut my pattern instead of tracing. I ALWAYS trace my patterns, but I was cocky and said to myself, “I got this” and cut away. Good thing I have at least two other versions of the Chanel jacket in my pattern stash! I’m also not heartbroken over the “waste” of well loved fabric. Now that I have it sewn up into a jacket I see the drapery/upholstery look it has and I’m not sure I love it as much as I did when I bought it. I love the colors but it may just be a little too “Grandma’s Parlor”. What do you think?

The Blouse: Undecided

You can see the challis I have for a blouse draped over Minerva in the top picture. It is a woven so all of my new favorite knit top patterns are out of the running. I think with this jacket style it needs to have a fairly plain and high neck-line. Or should I try a flounce or bow? I see the “pussy bow” blouse is coming back in a big way. Would that take me straight to Golden Girls territory? Maybe I just get a plain black crew neck or turtle neck and use the plum challis for something else.

For now I think I’ll see if I still have a nice black turtleneck in my closet and hope for cold weather some day this week so I can wear this new outfit to work. Unless of course I decide I just can’t live with the jacket the way it is and go in and open up the back seam a little to add some more wearing ease. I really should. I could probably even do it without having to removed the lining. Hmmmm, thoughts to ponder.

Next Up: Magical Sewing

Because I just don’t have enough to do this month, I find myself somehow in charge of making Wench Costumes for this year’s Madrigal Dinner. My daughter is participating this year and there wasn’t a dress in her size. Weeks had passed since the fitting and she hadn’t heard any more about anyone getting her measurements, etc. Being the good Mom that I am I contacted the director and asked if I could make her dress. But I had to get the materials, patterns, etc. very soon because of my busy schedule this fall. This was 2 or 3 weeks ago. Of course the patterns and measly bag of fabric was just dropped off tonight. When I contacted the Moms in charge of course they assumed I could make dresses for all the girls that didn’t have a dress to fit them in the left overs from previous years. Ha! (Or they were going to call one of the “local sewing stores” and see if anyone there wanted to do it for pay. Ummm, that would be me!) Now I get the patterns and they are all just one size and I have to “size it up” for the girls who didn’t fit into the pre-existing dresses and there is no way enough fabric for all the skirts and vests that need made. Great. Had I known I would be pretty much redrafting patterns anyway I would’ve just drafted my own to Sarah’s measurements a week ago.  Whatever, nothing gained by bitching about it now, just get to work and get it done. Good thing I’m fast and have all those magical bluebirds and mice hanging around just waiting to help me. Bibbity-Bobbity-BOO!